Ssese Islands

Housemates and I took a trip to the Ssese Islands in Lake Victoria. The distance seemed so manageable- but maps can be deceiving. Getting there took 8+ hours and required a walk in the rain, a bus ride, a ‘special hire’ (similar to our taxis but unlicensed), a 45 minute ferry ride to the largest island, and a ride on the back of a matoke truck. Each episode of movement, of course, was preceded by long waits, discussions, and negotiations. The truck- in addition to having a beautiful view and being cheap, dirty, and uncomfortable- had a problem with the starter so that every time it stopped (which it did frequently to unload matoke, cornmeal, or metal doors) it wouldn’t start until the men on board jumped off and pushed it (forwards or backwards depending on the slope of the hill) until the driver could pop the clutch. My housemates did some of the pushing to the delight and hilarity of the other passengers. The 20 km ride took 90 minutes and we arrived after dark at the hotel. The following morning we awoke to a beautiful vista of Lake Victoria and the sounds of many unfamiliar tropical birds. A steep walk to the beach went through rain forest with monkeys and more birds… and then it was back to the 8+ hour trek back. We substituted a special hire for the truck but it didn’t shorten the trip. Before leaving home we had agreed that the trip itself might be the highlight as there was a subtle indication in the guidebook that it wouldn't be straightforward. Highlight, frustrating, exhausting, and fun would be accurate.